Day 5: Heart Butte Cutoff Road to Heart Butte Road, 12 miles   

Today we walked from our campsite at the Heart Butte Cutoff Road and Hwy 89 Junction following the Heart Butte Cutoff to the Heart Butte Road (BIA Road 1). It totaled 12 miles. The Heart Butte Cutoff is a rural gravel road that stretches east to west along the front of the Rocky Mountains. It was a relief to our feet and our nerves to get off the pavement on a less busy road. Tomorrow will be the final day as we walk into the town of Heart Butte, just as the celebration of Heart Butte Indian Days gets under way.

The camp is packed up and we gather in a circle to start the day. We smudge and ask the creator to give us another beautiful day. Chris shares two letters that we have received showing us support. One of them is from two women in Sweden. We have gone global! It was a lovely poem of encouragement and admiration. Tears spring loose as the heartfelt words touch our hearts. We will walk strong today, empowered, thank you.

We start the walk and the sun rises. It’s the fifth sunrise I have seen in a row and I am still amazed at the beauty. Since we have started walking we have traveled over varying landscapes each offering a new foreground in which the rays can filter through. Since I have not been carrying a watch, or my phone, the sun is the only gage of time I have. Time has become the amount we have walked and miles we have covered. The numbered hours loose importance, we have no deadlines, no appointments. The feeling is enlivening and it allows me to be able to think without distractions. Think about water. It takes awhile of this deep thinking really understand. Water is life. Which why I question why we would be taking any risk in harming it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keRf2_Dc0No&feature=youtu.be

The sun moves overhead as the temperature rises. We keep on walking. The prairie stretches out in front of us as we walk east. Finally we reach our destination, hydrating and resting our tired feet. This for me was the most difficult day, due to the intensity of the sun and the four previous days taking their toll. Last day tomorrow, I am excited, another sunrise, another landscape, and another day to honor the water.    

Here is a short presentation on the oil and gas development on the Blackfeet Reservation.

https://vimeo.com/42007507?action=share

Day 6: Heart Butte Cutoff Road to Heart Butte, 10 miles

Sunrise on the last day of the walk, seen through a haze of smoke was full of reds, pinks and oranges.  Serenaded by coyotes as we left camp spirits were high.  This has been an incredible journey for those who have walked the whole 80 miles.  An opportunity to reconnect with the land, to honor clean water and to show the world what a special place this really is.

Our shadows danced on the hillside next to us as we walked parallel to the rising sun.  We walked past Badger Creek, stopping to appreciate it's rushing sound and the cool of the valley.  It was already starting to get hot.

Carried in a rawhide bag all the way from Chief Mountain to Heart Butte, water from a sacred spring blessed the journey.

 We rested for a while, to allow us to have a strong finish into the Heart Butte Pow Wow.

Some of us got tired and took a ride on the trailer, it was a hot walk on the road. 

But we finished.  And we are so thankful to Pauline Matt for organizing this walk, and helping all of us to honor the clean water of our homeland.  This is not the end of this journey, only the beginning, but what a start.

Day 4:  Kiowa Junction to Heart Butte Cutoff Road, 13 miles

Today we started at the Kiowa Junction following Hwy 49, Looking Glass Road. Our numbers are small this morning but our spirits are high due to a restful night sleep. We start to follow Hwy 49 that starts as an immediate uphill climb. The climb is 4 miles. As we start, the morning air feels the perfect temperature, not too chilly but enough to cool us as we work up a sweat. The sun is not up yet but an orange glow fills the east. We breathe deep as our heart rates increase, my nose fills with the wonderful smells of sage, asters, willow, aspen, all growing along side the road. It’s going to be a wonderful day.



Sunrise on the Looking Glass Road



As the sun peeks over the horizon into the pristine valley from which Lake Creek flows we pause and take a moment to soak in the beauty. As we stand we learn that this area’s fate has twisted. An oil company has recently purchased the mineral rights to this valley. The potential for an oil well to occupy this area is now high. As we stand openmouthed with shock, the importance of this walk is as bright as the sun that has now greeted us. We start to walk, stronger now, but our eyes are still glued to the valley below and the mountains that rise above. A grizzly across the valley makes his way up out of the bottom and a hawk flies overhead. We cannot let this happen. Not here.   

Before we know it we have crested the top and our feet fall more easily on the downward slope. We are now looking into the Two Medicine Valley. Lower Two Med Lake stretches west and we see a small glimmer of Middle Two Med just above it. The Suns heat is now increasing and there isn’t a breath of wind. The lake is a mirror. Water is everywhere; listening will reveal the trickle of small springs along the road. 

We make our way down into East Glacier and we have two miles to go. Today we have reached a total of 50 miles, more than half way to our destination. Tomorrow we will continue on from our camping spot at the junction of Hwy 89 and Heart Butte Cutoff, East on the Heart Butte Cutoff to the junction with the Heart Butte Road. 

Day 3: South Fork Milk River to Kiowa Junction, 12 miles

Another early morning for us walkers but its amazing how easily I have been able to rise for not being a morning person. Camping in such beautiful spots and looking forward to the day makes waking up enjoyable. We camped next to the South Fork of the Milk River off of Hwy 89. The river is just visible winding around the lush vegetation. Beavers have heavily manipulated the area and there was a large damn close to our campsite. Beavers are a key to maintaining healthy riparian areas. For many years they have been, trapped, killed, and removed. Their damns can be a road owner’s worst nightmare washing them out. Recently new projects have been created to restore beaver populations in areas where they have been removed. The Beaver Restoration Project is one of them. To learn more follow this link http://www.seventh-generation.org/Climate_riparian_beaver.html.  

Before we started walking we smudged and prayed for strength and endurance to make it to our next campsite. The morning felt warm indicating another hot day ahead of us. Our plan is to walk from our campsite at the South Fork of the Milk River to the Kiowa Junction where Hwy 89 meets Hwy 49 (Looking Glass Road). This will total 12 miles of S curves down into the South Fork of the Cut Bank Creek valley and up and over to our camping spot at Kiowa Junction. Walking early in the day also has its advantages of beating much of the traffic that zooms by on a tight schedule. We however walk at a comfortable pace with no rush to get to our destination.

Our camp is located next to Lake Creek a small stream that flows from the base of Spot Mountain. While I walk I think of old times when the Blackfeet people traveled on foot over the area we are now traveling on foot. How has the water changed? Its makes me smile to think that we may be camping in spots where my ancestors camps hundreds of years ago. Honoring and appreciating the water just as they did.   

Day 2:  Chewing Blackbones to Fox Creek, 16 miles

Up at 5 a.m. this morning after a not so restful sleep due to the vocal local dogs whom I suppose were unaware of the day that we had ahead of us, but maybe more aware of a bear hanging around.  We camped at Chewing Blackbones Campground which is located at the northern end of Lower St Mary Lake. We got on the road and headed south on Highway 89. The plan was for us to walk from Chewing Blackbones Campground to Fox Creek totaling 16 miles. A bald eagle flew overhead as we made our way around St Mary Lake as the sun rose, lighting up the spectacular St. Mary valley peak by peak. A mile or so later we walked past a blackbear sitting on the side of the road. Good omens that our journey will be blessed.  As the sun rose over the ridge we shed layers and walk on, taking turns carrying a hide bucket filled with blessed water from Heart Butte which we will carry back to its origin. Walking along the highway reveals a new aspect on everything. At the 3mph pace we are able to feel the landscape rise and fall as the roads turns and twist with every step. A 360 degree view gives you a look into the little details, hidden springs, lost ponds and delicious berry patches.




Resting


We end with a grueling 5 miles up a 10 degree steep grade in the heat of the day. If your appreciation for clean water is dwindling you needed to be there today. Despite all I was having fun! The other walkers are constant with encouragement. I am inspired by each and everyone who is participating. My feet are sore, calves are tights, knees wobbly, and a little sunburned but my heart is filled with a great, deep, growing respect and gratefulness for the clean water that flows from this place and the life that thrives.



St. Mary river


The next campground will be at Kiowa Junction

Water Walk Schedule

So the plan for the water walk for the week is:

Sunday:  Chief Mountain to Chewing Blackbones
Monday: Chewing Blackbones to Fox Creek south of Divide
Tuesday: Fox Creek to Kiowa Junction
Wednesday: Kiowa Junction to Two Medicine
Thursday: Two Medicine to End of Heart Butte Cutoff (near Badger Creek)
Friday: Heart Butte Cutoff to Heart Butte

Leaving every morning at 5:30 a.m. and camping at the destination every night.  If there are questions call 250-5346

Day 1: Chief Mountain to Chewing Blackbones, 10 miles

4:30 a.m. is dark time.  There is only a hint of sunrise, more blue and green then yellow or red.  And it's cold.  In Montana in August, it's cold...not freezing cold...more, "why am I getting out of bed?" cold.  This morning there was good reason to, not that that made it easier.



Sunrise on Chief Mountain

Today began the Cheif Mountain Water Walk, led by Pauline Matt, to honor the sacred waters of the Blackfeet and to bring awareness of oil and gas drilling and fracking on the Reservation.  Eight women and two men set out to begin the walk, which when finished will measure80 miles, from Chief Mountain to Heart Butte.



Blackfeet women walking



This morning's walk was an "easy" ten miles on pavement, along highways 17 and 89, through the townsite of Babb.  The morning started off with the burning of sweetgrass and a quiet walk down highway 17.  Traffic is pretty light at 5:30 a.m.  Besides the scuff and slap of feet, the only sound to break the silence was the lowing of cows and yipping of coyotes, this morning was for quiet reflection.  

 

Along the way, at small and large crossings prayers, tobacco and songs will be offered to show honor to the water that all of our lives depend upon.  Today's crossings included the St. Mary's River where unbeknownst to us (until a Tribal Officer drove by and told us) was a grizzly bear hiding out.  Each woman and man offer their own prayers and blessings through the offering of tobacco...silent but profound, I like to think that they will matter.



Offering tobacco, songs and prayer to the St. Mary River


Walking on a busy highway gives you a different view of traveling.  Moving at the speed of foot, instead of 70 m.p.h. allows you to see the slow changing of views and to see what you might not have.  It also gives opportunities to help fellow creatures, no matter how small, which explains how it was a fuzzy caterpiller got an extra lift across the road; though he (she?) was probably shocked by the experience.




We probably made quite a sight to the tourists and travelers who were there to enjoy the mountains, plains and glaciers.  A pilot car, a handfull of people (and one puppy), and a tail car with a trailer full of water, camping supplies and sometimes a walker or two!  But whenever someone slowed down long enough to talk with us, to find out what we were doing, they were overwhelmingly enthusiastic and offered well wishes and hope.  Even the Montana Highway Patrol gave us a thumbs up!



Tail car

It was an experience unlike any other and I'm looking forward to the days ahead.  But for now, tired feet and lunch call.  If you see us walking give us some encouragement, or better yet join us!  This walk is not about any one person or group of people, but about how we as a people choose to treat the land and water that sustains us.

The next campground will be at Fox Creek, on the south side of the Divide.